Flan evokes pure nostalgia for me. My Tex-Mex mom would often whip it up, blending milk and eggs together, fretting over the caramel, and then gasping if it came out with a crack in the middle. As a kid, I didn’t mind how it looked; I was all about savoring that custard on my palate. On my birthday, we’d stick candles in it and watch them dance. I’d wash it down with about 14 Dr. Peppers. I had quite the refined taste.
These days, I celebrate the holidays with my sister. We always prepare flan for the Christmas dessert because it feels so light and fluffy after a grand meal. After our mom passed away, we looked for her recipes but only uncovered fragments. (Grief teaches you — you’ll always be trying to piece things together. You won’t fully succeed, but you’ll certainly give it a shot.)
Fortunately, we’ve finally discovered a recipe that addresses my mom’s flan challenges. This recipe, crafted by the talented Nik Sharma in his amazing cookbook The Flavor Equation, yields the silkiest, most flawless flan I’ve ever tasted, and believe me, I’ve searched everywhere. When we finally perfected it, we squealed with joy. (I enjoy making flan with others because when you flip the pan, having someone there to cheer when it plops out beautifully into a pool of caramel makes it even more special.)
Nik Sharma recalls enjoying a similar “caramel pudding” in India, which he describes in his book, sweetened with jaggery and enjoyed on sizzling days in Bombay. In his cookbook, he meticulously details the techniques for each recipe, which are as informative as they are reliable and delectable. If you’re into Cook’s Illustrated-level food science geekery, grab that book! It’s phenomenal.
So, what constitutes a perfect flan?
* The caramel should be a golden amber hue. Not too light, not too dark. Be either patient or impatient, depending on who you are.
* Incorporating cream of tartar prevents the caramel from crystallization due to scientific reasons (please don’t ask me to elaborate).
* The custard should be seamless, free from air bubbles. Stir gently as if you’re moving in slow motion throughout the process. No blenders allowed.
* The custard needs to be set but not solid. Start checking it after 45 minutes.
* A bain-marie is essential, sorry. Yes, it’s a hassle to pour boiling water into a baking pan, but it’s crucial for achieving the smoothest custard.
* It’s homemade. A flan with cracks or bubbles is still perfect if you created it just for me.
In the version from The Flavor Equation, you can infuse the milk with toasted hazelnuts. I tried that one year, and it turned out lovely and subtle, but the nostalgic me prefers it simple and milky. Sharma also suggests using hazelnut creamer, which made me think about the overlooked baking possibilities of coffee creamers.
Anyway, let’s get to the flan.
Holiday Flan
Recipe adapted from “Hazelnut Flan” in Nik Sharma’s The Flavor Equation.
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
¾ cup sugar (150 grams)
2 cups whole milk
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1 tsp vanilla extract or paste
¼ teaspoon salt
4 large eggs
Prepare the caramel:
In a small saucepan, mix ¼ cup of water and cream of tartar, and add the sugar in the middle (Sharma’s clever trick to keep it from sticking to the sides). Cook over medium-high heat until the sugar begins to caramelize, roughly 6-8 minutes. When it reaches your desired shade of caramel, a deep amber for me, pour it into an 8-inch round cake pan, quickly swirling it to coat the bottom.
Baking preparations:
Preheat the oven to 325°F and set a kettle or pot of water to boil. Find a 13” x 9” baking dish that can accommodate your cake pan, along with a wire rack that fits inside it. (Or get inventive with foil or a kitchen towel to elevate the cake pan.)
Make the custard:
Rinse out your loyal caramel saucepan and fill it with the milk, sweetened condensed milk, vanilla, and salt. Heat it over medium-high but avoid boiling to prevent milk skin. Remove it from heat.
Break the eggs into a large bowl and use a spatula to gently mix the yolks — following Sharma’s tip will prevent creating unwanted air bubbles in the flan. We aim for a silky texture. Gradually incorporate just ½ cup of the warm milk mixture, stirring gently with the spatula. Slow-motion flan. Enjoy the process. Continue adding the milk slowly until fully incorporated. If lumps form, strain the custard through a fine mesh sieve.
Combine and bake:
Wow, the caramel has set in the cake pan! For added flan success, hold the spatula above the caramel and slowly pour the custard over it, like a gentle milk waterfall. Cover the cake pan with two layers of foil for complete coverage.
Position the flan on the wire rack within the baking dish and fill the baking dish with boiling water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the flan pan. (If necessary, I turn on the kettle again and add more water while it’s in the oven.) Carefully move the baking dish filled with boiling water and precious flan into the oven and bake for 45 to 60 minutes. Check by peeling back the foil to see if the custard has set and exhibits a slight jiggle (too much jiggle = watery, continue baking).
Using mitts, take the flan pan out of the baking dish and let it cool on your kitchen counter. Refrigerate overnight (cover with foil) to ensure it fully sets.
Flip and serve:
Peel off the foil and carefully run a long, sharp knife around the edges. Position a rimmed plate/platter over the flan dish and tell your sister to start recording. With both hands, swiftly flip the dish. Tap the flan dish’s bottom to indicate it’s showtime. Gently lift the pan and admire your stunning creation. Use a spatula to collect any caramel that remains in the pan.
Slice and serve. A splash of sherry would be delightful.
P.S. 10 wonderful holiday traditions and three easy recipes to enjoy during the holiday season.
**Why Flan Is My Go-To Dessert for Christmas Celebrations**
When it comes to Christmas festivities, food is the essence of the celebrations. From savory roasts to sumptuous sides, every meal becomes a chance to create lasting memories with those we love. Yet for me, the highlight of any holiday feast is dessert. And time and time again, one dessert stands out on my Christmas table: flan. This creamy, caramel-covered custard has become a cherished tradition in my home, and here’s why it’s my favorite holiday dessert.
### 1. **A Timeless Classic with Universal Appeal**
Flan is a dessert that knows no boundaries. With roots in ancient Rome and later refined by Spain, flan has become a common dessert in numerous Latin American homes, as well as beyond. Its creamy texture and luscious caramel taste make it a widely adored treat, enjoyable for kids and adults alike. During Christmas, when family and friends from various generations congregate, flan’s perennial charm ensures that everyone at the table will savor it.
### 2. **The Ideal Fusion of Lightness and Indulgence**
Following a generous Christmas meal filled with rich items such as roast turkey, mashed potatoes, and buttery casseroles, dessert can sometimes feel like a heavy burden. Here’s where flan excels. Its light, velvety feel and mild sweetness offer the perfect closure to a fulfilling meal. Unlike dense cakes or overly sugary pies, flan achieves a harmonious balance between indulgence and refreshment, leaving you content without feeling overly stuffed.
### 3. **A Make-Ahead Marvel**
The holiday season is often bustling, making the preparation of a Christmas Day feast a logistical feat. One of the main reasons I cherish flan is its practicality—it’s a dessert that can be prepared in advance. In fact, flan typically tastes even better after spending a night in the refrigerator, as the flavors develop and the caramel permeates the custard. This allows me to prepare it the day before Christmas and concentrate on other dishes or simply enjoy the celebrations on the big day.
### 4. **A Representation of Tradition and Unity**
For many households, flan is more than merely a dessert—it’s a symbol of tradition and unity. I fondly remember observing my grandmother skillfully prepare flan for our Christmas gatherings, her hands moving expertly as she caramelized the sugar and whipped the custard. Today, I continue that legacy, and making flan has transformed into a significant ritual connecting me with my ancestry and my loved ones. Sharing a piece of flan at the holiday table feels akin to sharing a slice of history and love.
### 5. **Adaptable to Fit Any Taste**
Another reason why flan is my go-to dessert is its versatility. While the classic combination of eggs, milk, sugar, and vanilla is a masterpiece on its own, flan can be tailored to different tastes and preferences. For a festive variation, I occasionally include a dash of rum or brandy in the custard, or enhance it with seasonal flavors like cinnamon, nutmeg, or orange zest. Variants like coconut flan, chocolate flan, and pumpkin flan are delightful twists that keep the dessert exciting year after year.
### 6. **An Eye-Catching Presentation**
There’s something undeniably enchanting about the moment you flip a flan onto a serving platter, unveiling its golden caramel crown. The shiny, amber-colored topping sparkles under the holiday lights, turning flan into a visually stunning focal point for any dessert spread. Its sophisticated look belies its simplicity, often leaving guests impressed by the effort (despite it being surprisingly easy to make!).
### 7. **A Connection to Cultural Heritage**
For many individuals, Christmas isn’t just a time to celebrate but also a chance to honor cultural customs. As someone with Latin American heritage, serving flan during the holiday season is a way to respect my roots and share a piece of my culture with others. It serves as a reminder of the warmth and hospitality that characterize the holiday season, bringing a sense of home to the celebration, regardless of where we are.
### 8. **A Favorite for Gatherings**
Christmas is a time for coming together with loved ones, and flan is an ideal dessert for sharing. Its rich yet delicate flavor profile pleases even the pickiest of palates, and a single flan can cater to a large crowd. Whether hosting a small family dinner or a lively holiday party, I can always rely on flan to win over the guests.
### Conclusion
Amidst a season brimming with joy, love, and scrumptious food, flan occupies a cherished spot in my heart and on my Christmas table. Its everlasting appeal, light yet lavish qualities make it a centerpiece of my holiday celebrations.
