Regarding pancakes, I usually opt for the classic varieties — buttermilk, Bisquick, banana — and I believe that if you refrain from over-mixing and monitor your burner, you’ll do fine. Before becoming a parent, I occasionally got interested in recipes involving whipped egg whites or those enormous pancakes baked in the oven for about two hours. But nowadays, I’m not trying to impress anyone; I just want breakfast.
I tell you all this so you understand I mean it when I say these pancakes are genuinely remarkable. This recipe is from Tanya Bush, who shared its backstory in her new narrative cookbook, Will This Make You Happy.
“Ideal Diner in Minneapolis serves the ideal pancake, with crispy edges and a custardy center,” she states. “They’re intended to be smothered in maple syrup — and perfectly salty. I spent years trying to recreate them.”
Tanya’s recipe is as simple and straightforward as any pancake, but it has a couple of modifications. First, malted milk powder — just a teaspoon. “It adds a toasted flavor to the pancakes,” she explained. “And a nostalgic depth and richness.” I love this addition and was pleasantly surprised to find malt right there in the breakfast aisle of the grocery store. Second, she cooks her pancakes in ghee or clarified butter. It withstands higher temperatures than regular butter — allowing you to achieve those crispy edges without spoiling breakfast with a burnt-butter taste. It’s surprising how far I went in my pancake-making career without learning this, but it’s transformative.
Even if you, like me, have developed firm pancake habits, do yourself a favor and set aside your stubbornness for just 10 minutes, because that’s all the time needed to get these on your plate.
Salted Butter Pancakes
from Will This Make You Happy by Tanya Bush
Yields 6-10 pancakes
125g (1 cup plus 1 1/2 tsps) all-purpose flour
2 1/2 tsps baking powder
1 tsp malted milk powder
113g (1/2 cup) salted butter, melted, plus additional at room temperature, for serving
118g (scant 1/2 cup) whole milk, at room temperature
100g (1/2 cup minus 1 tbsp) whole milk buttermilk, at room temperature
100g (2 large) eggs
Scant 2 tbsps maple syrup, plus extra for drizzling
Ghee or clarified butter*, for frying
Note: If you prefer to make your own clarified butter, here’s a simple approach.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and malted milk powder. In a large bowl, mix together the melted butter, milk, buttermilk, eggs, and maple syrup.
Combine the flour mixture with the milk-egg mixture and mix until just blended. Do not overmix. The batter can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
In a cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, melt 1 teaspoon of ghee. Once the pan is hot, pour 60 grams (a heaping 1/4 cup) of pancake batter into the skillet. (Use less batter for a smaller pancake if preferred.) Cook until the edges start to set and bubbles form on the surface, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook the other side until the edges are crispy and golden brown, 1-2 minutes longer. (The pancake should be cooked through; cut into the first one to confirm.) Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more ghee between each pancake as needed if the skillet looks dry. If not serving immediately, keep the pancakes warm in the oven at 200°F (95°C).
Serve the pancakes with a pat of butter and a generous drizzle of maple syrup.
Thanks so much for breakfast, Tanya!
P.S. Overnight baked French toast, the blueprint for a flawless brunch, and zucchini muffins for school mornings.
(Photos by Tanya Bush.)
