Lesley Enston’s touching new cookbook, Belly Full, embodies all the qualities a cookbook ought to have. To start, I can’t wait to try all the recipes within it…
…such as pumpkin fritters, coconut-stewed veggies, sweet plantain omelettes, and meat stews enhanced with vibrant green sauces. These are colorful, enticing recipes that convey narratives.
Enston was raised in Toronto by a Trinidadian mother and a Canadian father, and as she matured, she felt a connection to the people from the Caribbean islands, including Puerto Rico, Dominica, Jamaica, Barbados, Haiti, and beyond. Despite the differences in languages and spices, she remarks, “I felt at home in their food, their music, and that unmistakable atmosphere of someone raised with the sun shining down, amidst the Caribbean Sea.”
Her collection of over 100 recipes is categorized by 11 essential ingredients found throughout Caribbean cuisines — beans, calabaza, cassava, chayote, coconut, cornmeal, okra, plantains, rice, salted cod, and Scotch bonnet peppers.
Moreover, Enston infuses personal anecdotes throughout the stories. The pholourie (deep-fried split pea fritters) was “100% one of my favorite motivations for visiting Trinidad.” For Soup Jomou, known as Haiti’s “Freedom Soup,” she collaborates with Haitian-American chef Cybille St.Aude-Tate, who remarks on the long-standing tradition of her people making it. And — my favorite element — many of the recipes are intertwined with joyful memories of her family’s cooking, like this pelau, featured below.
“‘Me belly full’ is a phrase that resonates throughout the English-speaking Caribbean,” Enston writes in the introduction. “It has a straightforward meaning — a full and satisfied belly — but it can also reflect a full and content heart and soul.”
Pelau (Chicken and Rice)
From Belly Full by Lesley Enston
Serves 6-8
Lesley says: While Arroz con Pollo might be the most recognized version of chicken and rice outside the Caribbean, pelau is the one I cherish most. It consistently appeared at family gatherings at my aunt’s home nearby… As someone who, prior to having a young child, rarely kept ketchup at home, I must confess it truly is the secret ingredient. You could swap in tomato paste if necessary, and I have, but it won’t have the same enchantment. I’ve had countless pelaus in my life, but this one from Dominica may just be my favorite.
3 pounds bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed, cut into bite-sized pieces
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons Green Seasoning, store-bought or homemade (below)
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons coconut oil or other neutral oil
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 yellow onion, diced
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, diced
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 15-ounce can kidney beans, drained
¼ cup ketchup
3 cups water
2 cups basmati or jasmine rice
In a medium bowl, combine the chicken with ¼ cup of the green seasoning, two-thirds of the garlic, the salt, paprika, and pepper, using your hands to ensure the seasoning is well mixed. Place it in the fridge to marinate for a minimum of 2 hours or up to overnight. About 30 minutes before cooking, take it out of the fridge to allow the chicken to reach room temperature.
In a large Dutch oven or another heavy-bottomed pot, heat the coconut oil over medium-high heat until shimmering, then add the brown sugar. Cook, continually monitoring and occasionally stirring with a wooden spoon to ensure even cooking, for 5 to 8 minutes, until the sugar bubbles, turns dark brown, and begins to smoke. (Timing may vary by stove; if it hasn’t happened by minute eight, just hang tight; the moment will arrive quickly.) Immediately add the chicken and relish the sounds of sizzling. Cook the chicken uncovered for 5 minutes until it releases its juices, then introduce the onion, remaining 2 tablespoons of green seasoning, the remaining garlic, scallions, carrot, and thyme.
Lower the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook for 10 minutes until the veggies are tender. Incorporate the beans and ketchup, cooking until the ketchup has darkened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the water, increase the heat to high, and bring it all to a boil. Add the rice, lower the heat to medium, and cook uncovered until most of the water has evaporated, around 15 minutes. Stir everything well to prevent sticking to the pot’s bottom. Then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for an additional 15 to 20 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated.
Pelau is delightful right away and reheats excellently for several days; store it in an airtight container in the fridge.
Green Seasoning
In a food processor, blend the following until smooth: 1 bunch culantro (about 8 leaves; if unavailable, substitute cilantro); 1/2 cup fresh cilantro; 1/2 cup fresh parsley leaves; 1 head garlic cloves, peeled; 1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped; 1 shallot; 5 scallions, roughly chopped; 1/4 cup fresh thyme leaves; 1 celery stalk, roughly chopped; 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped; 1 seasoning pepper, seeded and roughly chopped (optional); 1/4 cup fresh lime juice. Store in an airtight glass jar in the fridge for up to 1 month.
P.S. Easy dinners with five ingredients, and a Brooklyn brownstone influenced by Caribbean styles.
(Photos by Marc Baptiste.)
**Tasty Pelau (Chicken and Rice) Recipe for Dinner**
If you’re in search of a robust, flavorful, and soothing dish to add to your dinner lineup, consider Pelau. This one-pot meal, a cherished classic in Trinidad and Tobago, features a delightful mix of caramelized chicken, rice, and vegetables, all simmered in a rich, savory broth. Pelau is an ideal choice for busy weeknights or relaxed gatherings with loved ones. Additionally, it’s a fantastic way to introduce your palate to the vibrant tastes of Caribbean cuisine.
In this article, we’ll guide you through a straightforward yet authentic Pelau recipe that you can easily recreate at home. Let’s jump in!
### What Is Pelau?
Pelau (pronounced “pay-lau”) is a traditional Caribbean dish, especially beloved in Trinidad and Tobago. It’s a one-pot meal that combines seasoned meat (typically chicken), rice, pigeon peas, and veggies, all cooked together in a tasty broth. What distinguishes Pelau from other rice dishes is the use of caramelized sugar to brown the chicken, imparting a distinct depth of flavor and an appealing golden hue.
Pelau is often enjoyed as a casual meal but is also a favorite at family gatherings, beach outings, and festive celebrations. The dish is versatile, easily accommodating your preferences by incorporating various vegetables or using different proteins like beef or pork.
### Ingredients for Pelau
To make a scrumptious pot of Pelau, you will need these ingredients:
#### For the Chicken Marinade:
– 1 ½ lbs chicken (bone-in, skinless, cut into pieces)
– 2 cloves garlic, minced
– 1 small onion, finely chopped
– 2 scallions, chopped
– 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
– 1 tbsp green seasoning (a mix of herbs like cilantro, parsley, and thyme)
– 1 tsp salt
– 1 tsp black pepper
– 1 tbsp soy sauce
– 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
– 1 lime or lemon (for cleaning the chicken)
#### For the Pelau:
– 2 tbsp vegetable oil
– 2 tbsp brown sugar
– 1 cup long-grain parboiled rice (washed and drained)
– 1 cup coconut milk
– 1 cup water or chicken broth
– 1 can (15 oz) pigeon peas (drained and rinsed)
– 1 carrot, diced
– 1 bell pepper, chopped
– 1 Scotch bonnet pepper (optional, for heat)
– 1 tbsp ketchup
– Salt and pepper to taste
### Step-by-Step Instructions
#### Step 1: Clean and Marinate the Chicken
Begin by washing the chicken pieces with lime or lemon juice and water. This practice is common in Caribbean cooking to eliminate impurities and refresh the meat. After cleaning, dry the chicken with paper towels.
In a large bowl, mix the chicken with garlic, onion, scallions, thyme, green seasoning, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper. Combine thoroughly to ensure the chicken is well-coated with the marinade. Cover the bowl and let the chicken marinate for a minimum of 30 minutes, or preferably overnight for enhanced flavor.
#### Step 2: Caramelize the Sugar
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Once hot, sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the bottom of the pot. Allow the sugar to melt and caramelize, turning a deep golden brown. Avoid burning it, as this could give the dish a bitter flavor.
#### Step 3: Brown the Chicken
Once the sugar has caramelized, carefully add the marinated chicken pieces to the pot. The bubbling caramelized sugar will react, so be careful. Stir the chicken to coat it with the caramelized sugar, letting it brown on all sides. This step is vital for developing the rich, deep taste that defines Pelau.
#### Step 4: Add the Rice and Vegetables
After browning the chicken, introduce the washed rice, pigeon peas, diced carrots, bell pepper, and Scotch bonnet pepper (if using). Stir everything to mix the ingredients.
#### Step 5: Add the Liquid
Pour in the coconut milk, water (or chicken broth), and ketchup. Stir to ensure the rice is distributed evenly. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat to low, cover the pot, and allow the Pelau to simmer for about 25-30 minutes, or until the rice is cooked and the liquid has been absorbed.
#### Step 6: Fluff and Serve
Once the rice is done, take the pot off the heat and let it rest, covered, for about 5
