Every month, we explore a straightforward technique or piece of kitchen wisdom that will transform your cooking. Back to Basics isn’t about learning another recipe by heart—it’s about mastering something so well you won’t need one.
I can’t recall the last time I measured salad dressing ingredients. Once you grasp the basic formula—and more importantly, how to adjust when it doesn’t taste quite right—there’s really no need to stick to a recipe. The foundation of a vinaigrette is a simple mix of oil + acid + salt, and everything beyond that is a chance to add flavor. Here are the main steps to get it perfect:
1. Begin with the acid. Red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, sherry vinegar, apple cider vinegar, rice vinegar, and fresh lemon juice are all excellent acids that will create different vinaigrettes. A straightforward option like red wine vinegar or fresh lemon juice is a good starting point, and once you’re confident, you can experiment further and even start mixing acids for a balance of flavors.
2. Then add flavor. Some of my preferred enhancements are honey, Dijon mustard, grated garlic, minced shallots, chopped herbs, a spoonful of fig jam, the last bit of pesto from the jar, a splash of pepperoncini brine, a teaspoon of miso, an anchovy. Not all at once, of course, but let your instincts guide you. (If you’re using something potent like garlic or shallot, let it sit in the acid for five minutes to soften the bite.)
3. Salt goes before oil. It’s a small detail, but salt dissolves better in vinegar, so season first. I’m generous with my pinch of salt as it has an entire bowl of salad to enhance. Give it a good whisk or shake to fully blend.
4. Discover your preferred ratio. The typical vinaigrette ratio is three parts oil to one part acid. I like bold flavors, so I gravitate towards a 2:1 ratio. Save yourself from extra dishes and just eyeball a pour of oil that’s somewhere between two and three times the amount of acid, depending on how strong you prefer your dressing. Give it a good whisk or shake again to blend.
5. Taste as you go. The best way to evaluate the taste is to take a leaf from your salad and dip it into your dressing. Too sharp? Add more oil. Too bland? Add more acid. Too bitter? A splash of honey will soften it. Too flat? Add a pinch of salt. Too salty? Grab more oil. Keep making tiny adjustments until your leaf dip is just right.
6. Trust your instincts. Give someone a vinaigrette recipe and you feed them for a day; teach someone to make a vinaigrette and you feed them for a lifetime. Is that how it’s said? Anyway, the point is, once you get the feel for a customize-your-own vinaigrette, you’ll start seeing half a lemon, three sprigs of dill, and the bottom of a mustard jar as the beginning of something exciting.
Casey Elsass is a food writer, recipe developer, and cookbook author based in Brooklyn. He wrote the bestselling cookbook What Can I Bring?: Recipes to Help You Live Your Guest Life and has co-authored over 30 cookbooks. His work has featured in publications including The New York Times, New York Magazine, Bon Appétit, NPR, Food52, and, naturally, Cup of Jo.
P.S. 10 fall dinners, and five additional salad dressings.
(Photos by Pacifico Silano.)
