Question at hand: What’s your preference for eggs? Especially scrambled eggs? Do you favor firm and folded or loose and scoopable? “There’s no such thing as a flawless scrambled egg,” Ella Quittner mentions in her highly engaging cookbook, Obsessed with the Best. In this book, Ella explores every conceivable cooking technique to discover the finest ways to make iconic meals: juicy roast chicken, soft cabbage, chewy chocolate chip cookies, or in this scenario, soft scrambled eggs. “So custardy they’re practically dessert,” she remarks.
After numerous trials, Ella crafted her own meticulous (yet quite feasible) approach to attaining, perhaps not the ultimate scrambled egg — since that’s subjective – but certainly the most tender and creamy. “It’s one of my top solo dinners during hectic times,” Ella states. “It’s amazing how it requires minimal time and energy but tastes like a dish you’d pay top dollar for at a brunch spot.” Serve alongside a chilled white wine glass, she advises, “and generously buttered toast — of course.” Naturally.
Here’s how Ella does it:
Caramelized Shallot Soft Scramble with Comté
From Obsessed with the Best, by Ella Quittner
Serves 1
3 eggs, straight from the fridge
1/2 tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt, plus a dash for the shallots
1 heaping tbsp cold crème fraîche
3 tbsp salted butter
1 large or 2 small shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 cup grated Comté cheese
Flaky salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
Note: Ella’s recipe suggests shallots, but they can be replaced with any allium — such as yellow onion or leeks.
Crack the eggs into a small bowl. Add the kosher salt. Use a fork to break the yolks, then briskly whisk the eggs for 30 seconds, until completely uniform. Add the crème fraîche to the eggs in roughly 5 small portions (to prevent clumping). Chill the bowl as you prepare the shallots.
Place a small-to-medium skillet (nonstick, stainless steel, or well-seasoned carbon steel) over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter. Once it melts and foams, lower the heat to medium-low and introduce the shallots with a sprinkle of kosher salt. Sauté, moderating the heat to avoid burning the butter, for 8-10 minutes, until the shallots appear translucent and start to brown on the edges and taste sweet and concentrated.
Set the heat to low and shift the shallots to the skillet’s edges. After a minute, add the last tablespoon of butter. Introduce the cold eggs. Don’t touch them for 90 seconds! Seriously, I’ll know. After 90 seconds, the eggs will start setting around the edges, resembling the early stages of a French omelet. Rotate the pan 180 degrees, so its handle is on the reverse side. Use a silicone spatula to draw in the eggs and shallots from the borders, nearly to the center, but slightly off by a few degrees — as if the spatula were a pilot directing a plane off course. As you scrape towards the center, ensure you scrape under the set eggs you’ve just drawn inward before proceeding with the next stroke.
Don’t disturb for another 90 seconds! I’ll undoubtedly know. After 90 seconds, repeat the spatula action. Sprinkle the grated Comté over the eggs’ center, where the large, set curds are nestled. Increase the heat to medium for 20-40 seconds, finishing any runny egg around the edges that stubbornly remains unset. Slide the eggs off the heat while still glossy on top, and plate them.
Finish with flaky salt and black pepper, then serve.
Thank you very much, Ella! We absolutely adore your book.
P.S. Two more egg recipes to consider: a simple make-ahead strata and Austin-style breakfast tacos.
(Photographs by Michael Graydon and Nikole Herriott. Excerpted from Obsessed with the Best by Ella Quittner, available now from HarperCollins Publishers. Copyright © 2026 by Ella Quittner. All rights reserved.)
Title: Mastering the Craft of Soft Scrambled Eggs with Shallots and Comté Cheese
Soft scrambled eggs are a culinary delight, offering a creamy and elegant texture that transforms the simple egg into a gourmet experience. Combined with the subtle sweetness of shallots and the nutty depth of Comté cheese, these eggs become a refined dish perfect for breakfast, brunch, or a light dinner. Discover how to perfect the craft of soft scrambled eggs featuring shallots and Comté cheese.
### Ingredients:
– 4 large eggs
– 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
– 1 medium shallot, finely minced
– 1/3 cup grated Comté cheese
– Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
– Fresh chives or parsley for garnish (optional)
### Instructions:
1. **Prepare the Ingredients:**
Start by cracking the eggs into a bowl. Gently whisk them until the yolks and whites are barely combined. Avoid over-whisking, as incorporating too much air can alter the texture. Set aside.
2. **Sauté the Shallots:**
In a non-stick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of butter over medium-low heat. Add the minutely chopped shallots and sauté until they turn translucent and aromatic, about 2-3 minutes. Take care not to brown them, as this can produce a bitter taste.
3. **Cook the Eggs:**
Lower the heat to low and introduce the remaining tablespoon of butter to the skillet. Once melted, pour in the whisked eggs. Let them remain undisturbed briefly until they start setting around the edges.
4. **Gently Stir:**
With a spatula, gently stir the eggs, pulling them from the edges inward. Maintain low heat and stir occasionally. The key to soft scrambled eggs is slow, gentle cooking, ensuring they stay creamy and delicate.
5. **Integrate the Cheese:**
Once the eggs are largely set but slightly runny, sprinkle the grated Comté cheese evenly atop. Gently fold the eggs to incorporate the cheese, letting it melt into the eggs.
6. **Season and Serve:**
Season the eggs with salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste. Remove the skillet from the heat while the eggs remain slightly runny, as they’ll continue cooking from the residual heat. Serve promptly, garnished with fresh chives or parsley if desired.
### Tips for Perfect Soft Scrambled Eggs:
– **Low and Slow:** Cooking the eggs over a low flame is essential for the sought-after creamy texture. Patience pays off.
– **Quality Ingredients:** Use fresh, high-grade eggs, and select Comté cheese, renowned for its complex flavors and excellent melting quality.
– **Non-Stick Skillet:** A non-stick skillet facilitates preventing the eggs from sticking, allowing for seamless stirring.
– **Butter:** Butter enriches and flavors the dish, enhancing its overall creaminess.
### Conclusion:
Soft scrambled eggs with shallots and Comté cheese exemplify the elegance of simple ingredients crafted with care. This dish marries the comforting familiarity of scrambled eggs with the gourmet flair of shallots and Comté, creating a meal that’s both refined and satisfying. Whether savored on a leisurely weekend morning or as a quick weeknight dinner, these eggs promise to impress and please.
